Helianthus annuus (sunflower),
Sunflower seeds are used in cosmetics because of their oil content. Sunflower seed oil maintains skin integrity and moisturizes adult skin without causing any irritation. Sunflower oil also contains polyphenols such as caffeic, chlorogenic and ferulic acids. Although polyphenols are found in many cosmetic products, they damage the enzyme structures that allow the destruction of the subcutaneous reinforcement tissue with aging. The healthy continuity of the subcutaneous reinforcement tissue means less wrinkles and less skin aging.
Vitis vinifera (vine shoot)
The shoots of the vine shoot plant contain high levels of polyphenols. As we mentioned earlier, polyphenols increase the production of antioxidant enzymes, provide anti-inflammatory activity and reduce the production and activity of skin enzymes that regulate the destruction of subcutaneous abutment tissues.
Vine sprout extracts provide strong tyrosinase enzyme inhibition thanks to the various molecules contained in them. They become enzymes that produce the stain issue that we all suffer from.
It contains high levels of vitamin E and is used as an emollient in the form of grape seed oil. For this reason, it has taken its place in anti-aging cosmetics. Vine shoots or ripe grape fruit were also used by folk healers for various diseases.
Shea basically consists of a solid fat obtained from the ripe shea fruit. It contains 90% triglyceride (saponifiable part) and 10% non-triglyceride (unsaponifiable part). The main fatty acids in the saponifiable portion of Shea are stearic, oleic, palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids. It moisturizes the skin and protects it by forming a barrier.
In the non-saponifiable part; antioxidants (oil-soluble tocopherols), triterpenes (eg, butyrospermol), phenols, sterols, caritene, allantoin and polyphenols (mainly catechin) provide UV-B absorbing properties.
Shea butter increases collagen production by inhibiting proteases such as metalloprotease (eg collagenase) and other serine protease (eg elastase), reducing multiple signs of aging and photoaging.
Glycine soja (soy)
It belongs to the pea family Fabaceae. Soybean oil provides moisturizing effects in skin care products. Thanks to its protein content, it reduces the phagocytosis of melanosomes and thus prevents the transfer of melanin from the keratinocytes and provides lightening of the skin color.
Soybean seed is the part that has a lot of antioxidant and antiproliferative content. It also contains molecules that provide estrogenic effects. Soybean extracts increase skin elastin, collagen synthesis and glycosaminoglycan levels, especially in aging skin, by inhibiting the enzymes that break down the subcutaneous underlying tissue.
Theobroma cacao (cocoa)
It is a part of the cocoa family and its nutritional and medicinal use dates back to the Mayan and Aztec civilizations.
Cocoa beans contain about 50% lipid, so they can be used as a softening moisturizer. It has been recognized as one of the largest sources of polyphenols by the European Food Safety Authority due to the heavy polyphenol concentration it contains.
It reduces the reactive oxygen molecules that cause photoaging due to the effect of blue light, such as pc and phone. For this reason, the axis of aging has taken its place in the works. It has succeeded to be a remarkable work with the effects of protecting the dermal connective tissue with the photoreceptors in the eye and reducing the formation of wrinkles.
Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba or Buxus chinensis):
Jojoba belongs to the Buxaceae family and its oil is widely used in cosmetic formulas. It contains a broad spectrum of fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic, as well as triglycerides, which together have a skin sebum-like composition. Jojoba oil also provides an antioxidant activity due to its content of alkaloids, steroids and glycosides as well as polyphenols such as tannins.
Narcissus officinalis, also known as marigold; Calendula officinalis belongs to the Compositae family. The flower extract is rich in active compounds, including terpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoids, and essential oils.
It has been shown that the antioxidant and antimicrobial effects of “calendula officinalis extract” and formulations containing marigold extract can reduce skin redness and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) associated with skin barrier function.
Similar to many other members of the Compositae family, caution should be exercised in the use of marigolds in cosmetic products as it is known to cause allergic contact dermatitis.
In other words, it is appropriate to use only the works that contain the essence. Based on the studies, it is not specified which part of the plant was used to prepare the extract, but the evidence is that the flower extract is more commonly used for cosmetic application.
It is originally from ancient Mesopotamia in the Middle East. Plant leaves contain carotenoids, dihydrostilbenes, and flavonoids such as glabranin, licoflavanone, Pinocembrin, lutein and β-carotene.
Glycyrrhiza extracts and natural compounds obtained from licorice root, especially flavonoid compounds, have a widespread use against skin aging, photoprotective activity, hair care and anti-acne activity.
Root extracts are mostly used in cosmetics for their whitening effects. A commercial formulation containing glabridin is claimed to have a whitening effect 1000 times stronger than vitamin C. Because of this property, glabridin is known as “whitening gold” and is quite popular as a whitening ingredient in standard cosmetics internationally.
Both the water retention and permeability barrier function of the skin are necessary to maintain the skin’s moisture. Intercellular lipids in the skin, which are composed of the most important cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides, play an invaluable role in maintaining this function.
The ethanol work made from licorice root; It has been determined that it has a high antioxidant activity such as scavenging free radicals, hydrogen donating, metal ion chelating, mitochondrial antilipid peroxidative and reducing abilities.
Glabridin is the main compound derived from licorice extract and has been shown to scavenge free radicals and inhibit the UVB-induced tyrosinase enzyme without affecting DNA synthesis. However, this molecule, like many other antioxidants, has difficulties and difficulties in staying stable.
Licorice extract also contains flavonoids that are effective on tyrosinase inhibition, such as isoliquiritigenin, licuraside, isoliquiritin, and licochalcone A. Liquirtin, on the other hand, is a flavonoid that does not act on tyrosinase, but mainly causes depigmentation by dispersing melanin. In addition, thanks to the polysaccharides in its content, it is used as a sedative in cosmetic products because of its high water holding ability.
Various formulations containing licorice extract are available on the market: it is also used in personal care products such as sunscreens, facial cleansers, make-up removers, tonics, foundations, concealers, eye creams, make-up kits, lipsticks, BB creams and shampoos.